Across the Atacama: Climbing 'Ojos' Del Salado
by David Lim
Of my many adventures and climbs worldwide, there are a few which taught me the lesson that the game of life often isn’t over unless you say so, and that having a never give up, never say die attitude is critical in carrying us over the fineline between success and 'failure'.
In October 2004, when my erstwhile partner in crime for my next climbing expedition had to drop out because of a knee injury, I wondered if a year-long plan and a seven year dream was also to be put on hold. At home, I have folders crammed with "KIV" projects to far –flung mountains and impossibly steep faces whose name no one can pronounce.
One folder, in particular, was of considerable interest. Since 1997, I had been gleaning information on ascents of the remote dormant volcano, Ojos del Salado. The "Source of the Salt River" ( its name in Spanish ) was a peak located in the remote northwest region of Argentina and shares a border with Chile. Right smack inside the Atacama Desert, the 6882m peak represented climbing in a place far away from the madding crowds of the world's popular honey-pot peaks like Everest. You can get 200 people lining up on the same route, on a single day, to climb to the top of the world. The main reason why anyone would go mountaineering – to find one’s limits – seems lost on Everest and such peaks these days. 'Ojos' was the perfect antidote. To make things spicier, a previous attempt in 2001 via Chile was abandoned about 200m from the top because of fatigue and deep snow. I was itching to settle unfinished business. And a solo climb by, despite my disabled lower legs would definitely up the ante.
The idea to climb it from the more remote Argentinean side would be logical to climber, less so to a layperson. Why go to the world’s driest desert, hike 60km, and then climb a mountain in a region which sees fewer then 40 visitors a year? But as they say in Argentina ,"porque non?" – "Why not?"
A critical moment of this expedition was when , on the first attempt on this lonely mountain, the seemingly stable weather gave way to strong winds, a menacingly dark sky and deep deep snow. This was no Everest. There was probably no one on this side of the mountain for a 100 sq km, no ‘fixed line’ up the peak, nor a clear trench of footsteps to follow. 400 vertical metres from the top, I turned back, believing survival was the better option.
Back in the camp, I had mentally resigned to return to Singapore without the summit. I had already set a SE-Asian mountaineering record by being the first person to solo-climb a 6000m peak, just a week earlier, in preparation for the Ojos summit climb. It was at that crucial stage that I realized that modest success was my biggest obstacle to greatness. When I asked myself the hard questions as to why I had come 12000km to climb this peak, what resources I had ( food, time, energy ), the answers all showed that the only person stopping me from succeeding was myself.
I thought about the first failed attempt on this trip up Ojos where the strong winds buffeted and tossed back to my tent after I had reached 6500m. I also thought about how I needed to focus on the task ahead and chunk down the 1200m vertical height gain I needed to make to reach the distant summit into stages. The 40-degree ice slopes gave way to a traverse through soft snow. Then a stiff haul up icy, windswept 45-degree slopes with 50 degree bulges. I rested twice on the way up, downing a hard-to-chew energy bar and some water. Each time, I turned to my side to offer something to an invisible partner, only to realise, I was well and truly alone. The solitude was truly getting to me. And then just when I thought the top was within reach, two steeper headwalls comprising loose choss and unconsolidated snow reared up. I unclipped my crampons ( they would not have been of any use beyond that point ), and laboured up the final slopes. An easy walk up after the last headwall revealed the small, metal pyramid summit marker. The wind, was now gusting at about 70 km/h and it was tricky to stand on the exposed corner for too long. A few quick snapshots of the Chilean view, now dropping 2000m away to the west, and I was headed down, teary-eyed from the exertion , and from the fact that a dream of eight years had now died. The yellow and blue tent was deliciously welcome as darkness fell. I slumped onto my sleeping bag. 11.5 hours up, six hours down. An 18 hour-day. Somebody should fix a drink and a meal now, I thought.
I lay there for 20 minutes until I realised it was up to me to fix dinner. I could have killed for a cold beer.
A solo expedition to the Atacama Desert in Argentina. Ascents of Volcan del Viento ( 6120m ) and Ojos del Salado ( 6882m ) JAN 4 – 28, 2005. First Singapore mountaineer to solo 6000m peaks. World’s 3rd solo of Ojos from Argentina. The climb was supported by Seattle Systems USA, Singapore Sports Council, Singapore Pools, Salomon Sports and Ad Idem Productions.
Author Profile
David Lim, 42, is best known for leading the 1st Singapore Mt Everest Expedition in 1998. He is southeast Asia’s most prolific alpinist, climbing and leading over 55 alpine ascents and expeditions. Despite being partially disabled in both legs from a rare nerve disorder in 1998, he became Singapore’s first professional mountaineer in 1999. Sign up for your FREE leadership and motivation e-newsletter at office@everestmotivation.com.
